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Social class and occupation determined people's clothing in the Renaissance.
Clothing was made with natural products and manufactured by hand, which meant slight irregularities in weave and color. Wool, linen, and silk were used, though silk was restricted to the wealthy. Earth tones, greens, browns, yellows, oranges, blues, and grays were the most common colors. Rich reds and purples were expensive, and were often restricted to members of court. True white and true black were rare. Fur was restricted to the wealthy, and only royalty wore ermine. Wood, leather, horn, and bone were used extensively for accessories and fastenings. Lace was worn only by the wealthy, and handmade. Men and women of every class wore hats. Straw or cloth hats were worn by peasants. Hats of richer fabrics, ornate trim and dramatic style were worn by the wealthy.
As wealth and class increased, so did the quality of materials and workmanship and ornamentation. There were issues of social propriety, especially for women. A woman who was married, or widowed, or careful about propriety, would not have displayed cleavage. An unmarried woman might have adjusted her chemise in front based on weather. Married women, particularly of the merchant and upper classes, kept their hair bound and covered with a hat at all times.
Women wore a chemise, a loose linen blouse worn next to the skin with a drawstring neck, and a corset. The corset was a shaping undergarment worn over the chemise. Hoops were worn under skirts by wealthy and aristocratic women to present a full, rounded skirt. Men of the lower middle classes and above (but not peasants) wore a doublet, a close-fitting jacket, sometimes without sleeves, and a jerkin, a close-fitting, usually hip-length jacket without sleeves or a collar, worn over the doublet, and often belted at the waist. A coat or "great coat" was one of the marks of the wealthy man. Worn over the jerkin, they were knee-length or slightly longer, with short, puffy but dramatic sleeves, or, free-hanging with a yoke across the shoulders, and the front open and turned back to reveal an expensive fabric or fur. Following are general descriptions of clothing broken down by class.
The Lower Class and Peasants
Women wore a fitted bodice over a long sleeve loosely fitted chemise, and two long full skirts (no petticoat). One skirt was generally older or poorer quality, and worn beneath the better skirt. Shoes were sturdy leather. Lower class or peasant men wore a very plain linen shirt, in some variant of white, with long sleeves that were slightly loose. Depending on his occupation, he might have worn a cloth or leather apron over his clothing. His trousers were at least below the knee in length, with draw strings, or full-length trousers cross-tied from the knee to the ankle. His belt was of plain leather and might hold a utility knife or simple pouch. A plain woolen blanket draped or belted around him served for a coat.
The Middle Class
The middle classes practiced trades, though women were often occupied with household tasks. A lower middle class woman may even have purchased or bartered some materials, instead of producing all of them herself. Wealthier middle class women might be the daughters or wives of local gentry or wealthy merchants, had servants of their own, or even worked as highly placed servants for the very wealthy. Her bodice was more elaborate. She might have worn a bumroll under her skirt in back. Her cap may have been coordinated with her overskirt, and decorated simply with ribbon. If she were better off, she might wear a corset over her chemise, or even a tightly laced and boned bodice, as well as one or more petticoats under her skirts. A very well-to-do woman of the middle class might wear a hoop and an underskirt that was color-coordinated with her overskirt.
The middle class man wore a linen shirt and a plain doublet of wool or linen. If he were minor gentry, a talented craftsman, an important servant in a wealthy household or a merchant, he might have had servants himself. His trousers had bands at the knee, or drawstrings, and fastened at the waist with either buttons on a waistband, or a drawstring. His fine linen shirt had full sleeves, and might have subtle needlework or embroidery on the collar and cuffs. He might wear some jewelry. His hat would be of quality material, and perhaps some ornamentation. Both sexes used wood or leather buttons. Women might have a bit of ribbon for ornament on their hat or bonnet, and color-coordinated their clothing. Belts and simple purses were common accessories, as were knives, depending on the occupation. Women often wore their household keys on their belts.
The Upper Classes and Aristocracy
The wealthy had access to fine embroidered linens and elaborate silks and velvets with ornate trims and ornamentation. Upper class and aristocratic women wore a chemise, a tightly laced corset, hose or stockings, bloomers, a hoop or a bumroll, a petticoat, one or two skirts, an elaborate ornate bodice, possibly a lace ruff around the neck, shoes, and a cloak for bad weather. Her chemise and his shirt were made of the finest linen with embroidered collar and sleeves. Sometimes the corset was replaced by a stiffly boned bodice. The wealthy man wore a doublet and jerkin of expensive fabric, with interesting texture and trim, and decorative buttons. He wore jewelry, had an expensive dagger, and possibly a chain of office indicating his rank or position at court, and a hat of the finest materials and latest style.
One of the key concepts to remember in terms of accuracy is that there were sumptuary laws about clothing and luxury taxes on some materials. It was potentially ilegal and consequently dangerous to be better dressed than your class would allow, and then as now, it is never wise to dress better than your boss.
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