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There are three things to balance in terms of authentic costumes.
- Historical fidelity - You want to be appropriate for the era in question in terms of the cut, the costume and accessories, and the materials.
- Comfort - You want your costume to be comfortable enough that you can wear it all day, while avoiding either melting with heat or freezing with cold.
- Affordability - There are practical limits regarding cost in the pursuit of authenticity and historical accuracy.
The fabric must be appropriate for the time: leather and natural fabrics, principally silk, linen, and wool. Although cotton was not known in Europe during the middle ages and Renaissance, it is an acceptable substitute in many situations. Rayon, while modern, is made from natural materials and can be quite authentic looking. Wool and silk are both excellent in terms of layering. Fabrics to consider include linen, silk, wool, corduroy, velvet, and velveteen. Slightly rough, nubby, hand-woven and hand-spun appearing fabrics are particularly realistic; knits are not. Velvet may be reserved for the very wealthy. Absolutely no modern synthetics, like polyester or acetate. If you decide to utilize cotton, your options include cotton broadcloth, cotton gabardine (as well as wool gabardine) and twill. Wool can be heavy or light, as can silk. Consider using unbleached calico for chemises, shirts, and linings of capes and other garments.
When shopping for fabrics and materials, check with other costumers, Renaissance faire players, and people in the SCA locally; they may recommend specific fabric stores. Remember to check fabrics intended for upholstery or drapes as well; often they work splendidly as historic fabrics. For most costumes, you can wear silk long johns under your clothing to help keep you warm on cold days. Using layers of clothing means that you can add or remove a layer as the temperature requires.
Remember that there were laws about clothing, based on social class and gender.
Use colors that were historically common and based on natural dyes, like browns, grays, greens, blues, yellows, orange. True black and true white were rare and expensive. True black required careful and expensive dying, and often, regular re-dying, and so is often restricted to wealthy and aristocratic characters. Bright red and deep purple were also expensive and used sparingly by the most wealthy. Fluorescent colors like lime green and hot pink are to be avoided.
Pay close attention to ornamentation, trims and accessories. Lace, unless it's hand-made, should be avoided, and used sparingly only on aristocratic costumes. Embroidery is appropriate for wealthy characters and aristocrats, but simple hand-made ribbons may be used for peasants and merchants and crafts people. Gold and silver trim were expensive luxuries, and used only on very expensive clothing for aristocrats. Visible stitching should be hand-stitched, though machine stitching on internal seams that won't be seen is acceptable.
Shoes should be leather, with buckles or ties over the instep. Remember that you'll have to wear these shoes all day, in all sorts of weather. You may be on your feet most of the day. You'll want something with a sole, rather than cloth that will very quickly become damp and dirty. Plain leather low-heeled boots work for both sexes.
You'll want an outer garment too; a cloak, cape or shawl, or even a plain blanket with a belt for a peasant. You'll want something that provides warmth as well a protection from moisture. Wool or silk are particularly appropriate, depending on the wealth of your character. Fastenings need to be made of natural materials, though they can be hook-and-eye, frogs, ties, or large buttons made of metal, wood, horn, bone, or leather. Trim on cloaks and capes around the edge of a cape or a collar was very much tied to social class. Fur was strictly regulated by the laws, and restricted to the wealthy. Ermine is reserved for royalty. Hats and head coverings were customarily worn by both sexes. Married women typically kept their hair covered, and bound.
Your character may have a pouch, bag, or basket as part of your costume, depending on what the character does. Jewelry and accessories like knives, buttons and buckles need to be chosen with care. Be careful that the hilts of knives, even utility knives, are appropriate for the class of your character. Hilts and buttons would be made of bone, horn or wood for anyone who isn't an aristocrat. Only the very wealthy wore jewelry, favoring layers of gold chains, pearls and cabochons. Rings were often worn in multiples, three or more to a hand. Modern day glasses are acceptable, especially plainer frames; watches, cell phones, and modern jewelry are not.
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